Language and History

Burundi’s official languages are French and Kirundi.  French is very much the business and administrative language.   I studied French for my leaving so I can get around – order food, arrange a meeting.  English is now beginning to become more common.  On my first day, when I arrived off the bus, I had no idea where I was so I rang one of Concern’s staff about collecting me.  The driver rang me but I couldn’t tell him where I was.  A man walking by heard me struggling on the phone and inquired whether I spoke French or Kirundi.  I confessed neither so he offered to speak to the driver over the phone for me which was sound of him.  Whatever about English or French, everyone speaks Kirundi.  I usually greet people in Kirundi and can order food and stuff.  With few exceptions, everyone reacts with amazement.  ‘You speak Kirundi?!’  They soon find out I only know a few words but the effort is greatly appreciated.

Some days, though, it can be difficult.  I recall my conversation over the phone with the UNESCO office about finding some colonial archives.  

‘Mr John! Mr John!  You are in Bujumbura now, we speak French!  Now speak slowly!’

It was more in exasperation, rather than anger.  Soon though, we both figured out what the other was saying and she suggested I visit the national library in Bujumbura.  The staff were very helpful but they had no colonial or historical documents.   History is a big part of my course and I was determined to find some genuine historical documents.  Back in the car, I asked Sabiti, the Concern driver, about it.  He immediately rang someone and we were on our way to the Centre de la Documentation de la Presse.

The Centre has a great collection of newspapers dating back to 1962 at independence as well as colonial news letters.  All the books were old and dusty, which I thought was great.  I met the staff and, after a few attempts explaining what I wanted, I was offered a seat at a table.  The four staff just got documents and placed them in front of me until I found the ones I wanted.  They also photo copied everything which really helped me out. 

This week, I met Leonidas, who agreed to be my translator on days I needed him.  He spent a year in Ireland so he’s used to dealing with the Irish!  We travelled to Gitega last week, in the interior of the country, to meet some local associations involved in production of porridges for children.  Everything I learn seems to take the project down different avenues of interest but it’s all good.  The journey took two hours, winding our way around the mountains.  We were often stopped at police checkpoints but they usually waved us on.  Leonidas told me afterwards that they probably waved us on because of my presence, which was handy.  I don’t know why though.  We hired a taxi, for like 4 euro each.  It was an interesting drive because the taxi collected sacks of food on the way to sell in Gitega.  The driver told us he had driven from South Africa, which was impressive.   I found it fascinating to note this other form of income, collecting and selling on the route.  Trade follows the road. 

Up to Cibitoke now this week, in the North West, right on the Congo border.  Should be good.