My name is Ting Ting Shum and as this is my first blog entry, introductions are in order. I am a Masters student of Anthropology and Development at National University of Ireland, Maynooth and am currently based in the Department of Sociology and Anthropology at UDSM while I conduct research for my thesis as part of the Combat Diseases of Poverty Consortium’s Training Programme. My interests lie in understanding local experiences of malaria control initiatives in Tanzania, looking particularly at the current Under Fives Catch-Up Campaign (UCC) being implemented by the Ministry of Health. Arriving in mid-September, I have now reached over the halfway mark of my time here in Tanzania, so there is alot to write about!
My arrival into Julius Nyerere Airport in Dar es Salaam was met by Mr. Kamugisha Gozibert of the Department of Sociology and Anthropology at UDSM. I have been extremely lucky to have Kamugisha’s assistance, advice and friendship these past weeks. From helping me to buy a mosquito net, to driving me all around the city when I had that credit card problem just after arriving, advising me as a colleague and as a friend, sharing his family and a great dinner with me and not to mention, always being at the other end of the phone to patiently answer and help me work out any questions I encounter on my escapades around Tanzania - a BIG thank you to Kamugisha.
Crossing the bridge at UDSM
My accommodation was organised by Ms. Jacqueline Mguima and it was ideal. The location outside of the university allowed me to part take in community life whilst being a stone’s throw from the university. I lived there with three other researchers: Ghanaian, Colombian and Swiss. Congregating in the evening after a hard day’s research (!) it was great to share ideas and different disciplinary perspectives, and of course, our daily experiences of living in Dar. We have now parted but there are already plans for a get together in some corner of Europe.
Entrance to the UniversityMy supervisor at UDSM is Dr. Patrick Masanja. He first introduced Medical Anthropology to the university and his past students seem to touch all social study corners of the medical world here, with some having worked exclusively on malaria. It has been many the occasion that I’ve heard the phrase ‘And here is another product of Masanja!’ upon introductions. Being able to consult with Dr. Masanja these past weeks has been an invaluable resource and he has been more than generous and accommodating with his time. Half hour meetings turn into hour and a half discussions filled with anecdotes and advice stemming from experience and local knowledge. He prescribed me essential readings, connected me to people important for my research as well as providing me with sound guidance throughout my time here – many thanks to Dr. Masanja.
A-Z drivers and pool playing buddies
Taking advantage of their Department of Development Studies at UDSM, I was exposed to some literature on public health development and also the fine company of Ms. Irene Mashasi, who has now become a colleague and a great friend. We have very similar interests which lends to unending conversations. Irene had previously conducted research with the Ifakara Health Institute (IFI) around the topic of malaria in the region which I am focussing on for the remainder of my research so it has been great to be able to speak with her over many the cup of tea and vitimbua (fried rice snack). For my part, I was able to share some social and medical journal articles on malaria and mosquito net use which I’d brought with me so it has been a great exchanged of knowledge, cultures and friendship.
Salama leku and Mambo vipi again. I now write between field sites in the Lindi region in Tanzania. I continue from above:
More specifically, my work the past weeks has focussed in on the Under Fives Catch-Up Campaign (UCC) which is being implemented by the Tanzanian Ministry of Health. This entails free distribution of mosquito nets to every child under five years of age throughout the country – a huge undertaking incorporating many partners and strategies on various levels. I have been accumulating an understanding of how this programme works through speaking with all parties involved from conception to execution. Now I hope to see the impact of the programme upon those whom it targets and will move to a village field site tomorrow. I have already visited the village, which is situated in the Nyangamara District of the Lindi Region in Tanzania, where I experienced the overwhelming hospitality which Tanzanians are famed for.
On the topic of generosity, I write this from the home of two German doctors and their daughter who have welcomed and helped me in my search for a suitable community in the region. They set up the Brigita Dispensery here in Lindi town twenty years ago and continue to work providing medical treatment to patients coming from as far off as Mozambique at a cost fair to each individual. It has been a pleasure to meet them, to see their work and to hear about their almost three decades of experience in Tanzania. It has been very interesting to observe two very different types of ‘Aid’ to the country and its people.
I have also had a chance to explore my concurrent interest of Chinese development in Tanzania around the field of health and specifically, malaria. I have spoken with embassy representatives, both biomedical and traditional doctors of the Chinese medical teams posted in Tanzania, employees of a Chinese company involved in business and construction here and also personal perceptions of Chinese work in the country from both Chinese and Tanzanian individuals I have encountered. It has been intriguing to hear the different accounts and stimulates in me enthusiasm for further research on the topic.
So here’s the fun bit =) To my delight, my research has offered me opportunities to sample some of Tanzanian’s varied and beautiful landscape. Language is an essential component of anthropological research and I took a week and a half of Swahili classes in Zanzibar with Mwalimu Mwana upon arrival. Swahili originated on the island and Zanzibaris boast proudly that the purest and best form of Swahili in East Africa is spoken there. I lived with an Muslim family during their Ramadam period and Iddi celebrations and it was intriguing to part take and share in this important festival with the family. I also took the opportunity to do some preliminary research for my topic, which put me in contact with instrumental individuals on mainland Tanzania with whom I met when I returned.
A-Z Textiles is the manufacturing company which has been contracted to produce and deliver all the nets distributed by the UCC. I was permitted to visit and tour their factory in the Arusha region in the north of Tanzania, home to Africa’s highest peak, Mount Kilimanjaro. No time to climb the mountain but together with my adventurous Swiss housemate Lara, we admired the now extinct volcano from Moshi town; east of Arusha and gateway for those who wish to ascend the 5,896m peak. A sight to behold but it was also alarming how little snow there was to be seen at the top. Local town’s people accounted to us how quickly the snow is melting, the rise in temperature they’ve experienced and interestingly for me, the rise in malaria prevalence in the area also. Coca-Cola, which owns almost all drink options here, will have to repackage their Kilimanjaro water which depicts the famous sight as standing white in all its snow-capped glory.
Stretching the legs with Monica after arriving in Moshi
Mt Kilimanjaro from Moshi town
We also took advantage of this trip north and went on safari for one day in Arusha National Park. Sufficed it to say that giraffes are now one of my favourite animals! – so odd to look at but so elegant to watch. There was a close brush with a herd of water buffalo during the walking safari but the park ranger who was our guide ably negotiated the situation. Zebras, antelope, warthogs, hippos and lakes of pink flamingos to name but a few also featured in the park. The beauty of Mount Meru and the hard-to-believe stillness at the Ngurdoto Crater gave me a taste of the uniqueness of Africa which I have not experienced in other parts of the world. And all this whilst being able to carry out research!
I was also lucky enough to accompany the team of drivers from A-Z Textiles on a mosquito net delivery to the Iringa region in south-west Tanzania. I travelled with them for four days, experiencing life en route and dealings with local authorities in order to achieve delivery. The A-Z staff took great care of me and I have permanent pool-playing buddies if ever I am to visit them in Arusha. The town of Njombe, where we finally parted, was truly lovely, with ever-green trees and mountain walks, and where I found myself shivering whilst wearing all my clothes at once and two pairs of socks! Tanzania is a picturesque and diverse country of which I have only gotten a glimpse of.
I have found Tanzania to be a country of smiles and warm welcomes – Karibu! People have been so accommodating and helpful and this had aided my research hugely. Although a much bigger country than Ireland, I have also found to my surprise, that it is similarly small with everyone knowing everyone else; and even more so when it comes to the malaria world. The CDPC world is even smaller it seems and I got to meet with Ms. Mary Rwegasira from Concern who was in flying from Dublin and just back in Dar after her training at Maynooth. We just had time for a quick cup of tea and have scheduled another tea session when I’m back in Dar. Mr. Kamugisha will be coming to Ireland for training in February next year and I hope to somehow repay all the kindness he has shown to me when we meet again. And another lady who has been a godsend to make the acquaintance of here is Ms. Monica Gorman, country director of Oxfam and good friend of Mr. Joseph Clowry, Education Officer at the CDPC. Monica has so much knowledge and experience of living in Tanzania, has a way of making you feel so comfortable and welcome, a fine sense of humour and in exchange for a box of Barry’s teabags, gave me a lift to Arusha! I look forward to seeing all the brilliant people I’ve met these past weeks soon again before I leave.
The past two months summed up with alot left out. Now, I am excited and enthusiastic to start work in the village setting, to learn much through participation and observation as anthropology trains best, and to meet and share with all those living in this valley in the Lindi region where the village is situated. I’ll leave it there for now from on the hill in Lindi town and I hope to be signing in again soon.
My best wishes and baadaye!
Ting Ting